A Calmer Trip Home

Wednesday, September 25

“Noël and I did some reorganizing of the items in our bags and settled in for our last night in Italy, with the window open and hearing the surf.”–that’s how I ended yesterday’s account. About 2:30 AM, everyone but me, it seems, was disturbed by the sound of a loud argument under our windows. That’s what I hear, anyway; it didn’t wake me up. I learned about it at breakfast.

Today’s departures lacked the drama of our travel here. We rose and shared our last breakfast in Ostia, and then hailed a cab to the airport at Fiumicino. The customs arrangements are new to me, but John, Elaine, and Noël were familiar with them. On our way here we carried all our luggage, but we decided to check one bag for the trip back, since we had a bit more to carry now.

Once on the plane, however, we were able to relax. Of course our flight crew offered complimentary wine with our fairly substantial lunch. Only later, after we switched our watches back to EDT, did we note that this had also been our breakfast time on this 30-hour day. From now on, we’ll check Rome time when we need a second reference for alcohol.

At Philadelphia, I experienced the joy of customs for the first time. On arrival, US citizens went to one area and visitors went to another. Lines were about 12 people deep, in part because half of the customs lines were closed. (Sequestration, perhaps?) We handed in our customs form and reclaimed our checked bag, then re-entered the system by passing TSA security and re-checking the checked bag.

Fortunately, we were in plenty of time, so we didn’t have to be alarmed at the shuttle’s crawl from Terminal A to Terminal F for our final plane to Cleveland. It was in Terminal F that I ran into the second-worst bathroom I had seen in fifteen days. As Noël and I waited for boarding to start, we heard pre-flight announcements from a few gates away in a voice that would have been perfect for a middle-school cafeteria monitor. When our gate opened and our attendant tried to do the same, we realized that none of the departure gates had microphones and loudspeakers.

We were glad to get to our seats for the flight back to Cleveland’s airport. When we heard that the flying time for this trip was 55 minutes, we thought that we might actually arrive early; but then we waited on the ground for about 20 minutes before actually taking off.

No matter: we arrived on time in Cleveland–a little sad for having left our family members and our new Italian friends, but glad to be back home and a bit more appreciative of our lives here, where most things are familiar and communication is effortless. I still had five Euro in my pocket for the next trip.

This Is Where We Came In

Tuesday, September 24

We were almost on the road when I realized that I didn’t have my wallet. Was it stolen while I was distracted on a crowded bus? Did I leave it at Villa Enrichetta when we left there on Saturday? Perhaps I’ll never know. But after verifying that it isn’t actually hiding somewhere in my bags (which has happened to me before–our group calls it “pulling a Bill”), we said goodbye to Judy and Lew (who leave later today) and to Lauren and Bill (who leave tomorrow) and headed off on the road.

Fortunately, I kept no money in my wallet, so the only items to be concerned about are the credit cards, which I was able to take care of over the phone while John drove us from Genoa to Fiumicino. That’s the location of the airport: we don’t fly out until tomorrow, but we needed to return the car to EuropCar there by 2:30. We made it with time to spare. From the airport to Aran Blu Hotel in Ostia was a matter of a short taxi ride, and then we were back where we first arrived from the airport twelve days ago.

We had snacked on the way, but by this time we had skipped a meal, which is against the rules in Italy. We headed up the beach to Sotto Vente, where we shared our first meal in Italy, but André wasn’t there. Once again they had closed their kitchen early, but we enjoyed some wine and a salad and headed off in search of something more substantial. We walked further north along the beach, but found  the same situation at the restaurants there. Back at the hotel, we were advised to head to the town center, some two miles to the south. Since it was a lovely afternoon, we decided to walk there, and were rewarded by finding at Ora di Napoli, a pizzeria suggested by the hotel staff. A couple of hours later, and we were walking our pizza off on our way back to the hotel.

Noël and I did some reorganizing of the items in our bags and settled in for our last night in Italy, with the window open and hearing the surf.

Meeting Friends in Genoa

Monday, September 23

In her previous visits in Italy and the research she has done online, Judy has made several contacts, and we wanted to meet them. One was Mirella Lazzarino and the other is Jackie Janotta Rothenberg. We met both of them for a late-morning coffee in the neighborhood called the Castelletto.

Mirella is an elegant Italian lady who has lived in England and in Italy. She was recently widowed and is now living on her own. We were all captivated by her and enjoyed this chance to meet her. She walked to meet us, had coffee with us, and took a bus back to her own place nearby.

Jackie is an American writer spending a year in Genoa with her family to deeply experience another culture and to give their girls an opportunity to experience Italian schools and learn the language from interaction with other students. I highly recommend her own blog, Giorni a Genova. Italian kids go to school from 8:00 am to 1:00 pm, but that only includes a snack break, not a lunch break; Italians figure that a 1:00 dismissal time is a perfect for lunch. We met with Jackie until just before her time to pick up the kids at school.

We went back down to the area around Piazza Ferrari, found another café for lunch, and visited the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, whose courtyard we had visited yesterday. This time we went inside. As you would expect of a cathedral, this is an impressive church. It’s only a few hundred meters from the Palazzo Ducali, and in the day of the Doges, this would have been the Doge’s parish church. The Cathedral offers a reminder that Italy and the USA were at war some years ago: an unexploded bomb is exhibited on the congregation’s right side, toward the back of the nave.

The inscription reads (close enough), “This bomb, launched by the British fleet, while breaking through the walls of this famous cathedral, fell here unexploded on February 9, 1941. In everlasting gratitude, Genoa, City of Mary, wishes the memory of so much grace to be engraved in stone.”

This is our last night in Genoa–tomorrow most of us will
move on. Lauren and Bill will stay one more day. For our dinner this
evening, we headed to a little shop on Via Albaro, just a couple of blocks
from the Marcelline. It’s where we had dinner last night, but tonight we
used carryout, which they call “Take Away” in Italy. The difference is
that in Italy, they generally aren’t set up for people to take food
away. If you do, you take a napkin and little else. But our shop found
plastic plates and forks, and bags to hold the focaccia, fruit, cold
cuts, and cheese that we ordered. We had a picnic on the second-floor
courtyard of the Marcelline.

After that, Judy, Lew, and
I taught Noël how to play pinochle. She did well! Then she and I Skyped
a video call to Heather and the children. By that time it was nearly
midnight, and time for us to rest up for tomorrow’s drive back to Rome.